Oriental Rhapsody

Boen Tek Bio, Pasar Lama-Tangerang. Source: Private Doc.

Do you believe in coincidence?
What I believe, all had been set from Thy. 
"Let it be done unto me according to Your word," 

Last year, I met a friend who wrote a book 'Guardian of Traditions' (written by P.J. Leo, 2017). He is a journalist and photographer from one of the leading media in Indonesia. He introduced me to this place, an amazing place in Tangerang, specifically at Pasar Lama (Old Market). Our friendship still continue until today. He made me curious about the place and I am so glad this wonderful place located only 30-45 minutes from my office at Alam Sutera.

Now, I explore it. Follow me & see how fun it is!

Walk With Me. I Love The Dragon Pillar. Source: Private Doc.

Known as industrial city, many people think Tangerang is such a far and a dusty place; a place with a lot of factory outskirt of Jakarta. Well, it is not all wrong. Surprisingly, Tangerang has it own 'hidden pearl'. The beautiful history of Chinese people who lives here along Cisadane River since long time ago. Those people has an antique praying palace which had been stood more than 300 years old.

Sundanese history bible "Tina Layang Parahyangan"mentioned there was a Chinese troopers which lead by Tjen Tjie Lung (Halung) arrived at Teluk Naga in 1407. They were about to leave Jayakarta, but unfortunately the ships had broken and also ran out of food. They settled down at Teluk Naga then became a laborer, merchandiser, and farmer.

Halung is a Manchurian, from Qing Dynasty. Thus, this Dynasty ruled China for 300 years (1644-1912). Until today, the descendant of Qing Dynasty is still remain, not in China but in Indonesia along Cisadane river, we call this people 'Cina Benteng'.

Writer at The Front Yard of Temple. Source: Private Doc.

Writer at "Pintu Kesusilaan", Boen Tek Bio. Source: Private Doc.

Cina Benteng people has darker skin and not all of them living wealthy. Most of them become a farmer, laborer, and shop owner at market Pasar Lama. Although they are having a very modest life, they do have few great places to praise the Lord.

There are 3 Buddhist temples around Cisadane river: Boen Tek Bio, Boen San Bio, and Boen Han Bio. The oldest is Boen Tek Bio (Boen= Literature, Tek = Wisdom, Bio = Place to Pray) which built in 1684. Boen Tek Bio is a must visited place because its antique oriental architecture and decoration. You must see it!

To reach Boen Tek Bio, you must walk 10-15 minutes inside Pasar Lama. Mind your steps because the road is narrow and watery after rain. But, when you reach this temple you will be amazed by its grace! The temple area is quite huge even the front main gate gives the reverse interpretation. Walk in to the right side, enter from "Pintu Kesusilaan" (The Polite Gate) and straight to inside.

In Front of Praying Room. Source: Private Doc.

In mid area, you will see the beautiful Chinese old calligraphy hanging on the red porcelain wall and surrounded with many praying rooms with numbers. Further inside, you will meet Vihara Padumuttara. It has 2 gates; an antique red door that connect to the market and a green yellow red dragon gate which built in 1976 in front of Vihara.

Not far from the temple you can also visit 'Benteng Heritage' The Heritage Museum of Tangerang Chinese Community. Here, you can see many wonderful antiques and historical Chinese stuff. Please be mind, no photo allowed at the museum.

In Front of Chinese Calligraphy. Source: Private Doc.

Vihara Main Gate, Est 1976. Source: Private Doc. 

Knock Knock Knock'in On Heaven's Door. Source: Private Doc.

After explored the temple and museum, I continued my journey by walked around in the market. Celebrating Chinese New Year 2019, currently the market looks exciting with tons of red gold Chinese ornaments and decorations. Traditional Chinese cakes and food is also can be found in almost every corner. Try its distinguish taste!

I saw moslem merchandiser and buyer here as well. They respect each other and do look happy in diversity as it is also our country slogan "Bhineka Tunggal Ika" (unity in diversity). FYI, this is a people market, very modest with narrow road. I hope you are okay to do blusukan! Haha.. 

Let's Go Blusukan to Explore The Market, No Need to Be Gengsi! Source: Private Doc.

Horay! I Found a Nice Decoration! Source: Private Doc.

If you wish to stay until evening time, you can do fun walk at Cisadane river banks and enjoy the view of Tangerang. At night, many restaurants will be opened near the pedestrian areas. Various cuisine from Chinese to local Indonesian will be ready to serve you 'till late. All I can say, this area truly bring wonderful color in Tangerang City. Have fun and Happy Chinese New Year 2019!


For more complete story, visit my Kompasiana Blog (this article become the Headline):
Eksotika Oriental di Kota Tangerang


Location: Boen Tek Bio, Pasar Lama-Tangerang
Photographer: Jeffrey Sukardi (@jeffsukardi)
Writer: Ayu Saptarika (@ayuliqui)
Dress: Artea Batik Tulis Semarang (@arteabatik), Agnala by Tessa Fedilla (@fedillatessa)